The goal of a recent study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was to demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA) and niacinamide (NAM), and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin.

A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies. Anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analyzed using measurement of water vapor transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014-2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use.

It was found that panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E2, interleukin‐6 and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers; vis, filaggrin (2‐fold increase); loricrin (2‐fold increase); involucrin (2-fold increase); and peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5-fold increase). The formulation exhibited low WVTR versus no treatment and displayed an ordered lipid structure. Moreover, the day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. The results showed that AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (day-29 mean change from baseline – AR day cream 0.77; AR serum 0.67). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies.

Therefore, the new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin.

It was concluded that the recently developed AR day cream and AR serum significantly improved skin redness, without conferring side-effects like skin irritation, allergenicity, photo‐irritation or photo‐sensitization. Moreover, both cosmetic products were well-tolerated under normal conditions of use. 

Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2019 Dec;41(6):534-547. doi: 10.1111/ics.12559.