Human skin is exposed to a number of environmental factors every day that can have deleterious effects on dermal integrity. This results in dry skin, wrinkles, cracks and eventually sepsis. Dry skin and related disorders can be prevented and protected with the use of emollients or moisturizing creams and lotions preferably with antiseptic properties.1

Exotic lipids or fats obtained from herbs, such as kokum, are beneficial for skin care. These natural lipids have high oxidative resistance and are biocompatible and do not exert any deleterious effects on the skin.

The exotic fats used in skin care exhibit their effects by restoring a sufficient layer of skin lipids and skin elasticity, boosting natural skin regeneration and increasing skin hydration by forming an inert, occlusive membrane.1

Kokum butter and cocoa butter are two natural butters with excellent emollient properties.

Kokum contains protein, tannin, pectin, sugars, fat, organic acids, such as (−)-hydroxycitric acid, hydroxycitric acid lactone and citric acid; the anthocyanins, cyanidin-3-glucoside and cyanidin-3-sambubioside; and the polyisoprenylated phenolics garcinol and isogarcinol. Kokum and some of its phytochemicals possess antibacterial, antifungal, anti-ulcerogenic, cardioprotective, anticancer, chemopreventive, free radical scavenging, antioxidant and anti-obesity effects.2 Kokum butter is smoothening, softening, astringent, and emollient. It is used as a local application for ulcerations and fissures of lips, hands, etc. Kokum butter has soothing effect on burns, chaffed skin and scalds. It is an excellent emollient and has high oxidative stability, which can assist emulsion integrity. It is used as a natural moisturizer to keep the skin supple and silky smooth. It has potential role in the treatment of severely dry skin, ulceration and fissures of lips, hands, feet, etc.3

Cocoa has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The bioactive compounds of cocoa include polyphenols, theobromine, and many essential minerals, including magnesium, copper, potassium and iron. Cocoa has polyphenolic compounds with a high amount of flavonoids, particularly flavanols, also known as flavan-3-ols. The polyphenols found in cocoa, mainly flavanols, are antioxidants, and have the potential to inhibit lipid peroxidation and neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS). Cocoa protects the endothelium from oxidative stress and endogenous ROS.4 Cocoa butter mimics the lipid content of skin and can help in making dry skin look and feel better. Cocoa butter can improve skin elasticity and can promote healthy collagen production.5 Cocoa butter is an excellent emollient and an effective moisturizer and skin softener.6 Cocoa butter can easily penetrate into the skin and provide hydration from within. It is naturally rich in Vitamin E and several other vitamins and minerals.7

Natural butters, such as cocoa and kokum, thus have potential benefits as emollients and hydrate the skin.

References

1. Mandawgade SD, Patravale VB. Formulation and Evaluation of Exotic Fat Based Cosmeceuticals for Skin Repair. Indian J Pharm Sci. 2008 Jul-Aug; 70(4): 539–542.
2. Baliga MS, Bhat HP, Pai RJ, et al. The chemistry and medicinal uses of the underutilized Indian fruit tree Garcinia indica Choisy (kokum): A review. Food Research International 2011;44(7):1790-1799.
3. Swami SB, Thakor NJ, Patil SC. Kokum (Garcinia Indica) and its Many Functional Components as Related to the Human Health: A Review. Journal of Food Research and Technology 2014;2(4):130-142.
4. Scapagnini G, Davinelli S, Di Renzo L, et al. Cocoa Bioactive Compounds: Significance and Potential for the Maintenance of Skin Health. Nutrients. 2014 Aug; 6(8): 3202–3213.
5. Gyedu-Akoto E, Amon-Armah F, Oddoye EOK. Production and Marketing of Cocoa Butter and Shea Butter Based Body Pomadesas A Small Scale Business in Ghana. Asian Journal of Business and Management 2015;3(5):385-91.
6. Duke JA. The Green Pharmacy Anti-Aging Prescriptions: Herbs, Foods, and Natural Formulas to keep You Young Anti-aging prescriptions. Rodale, USA; 2001.
7. Leng MS, Njinkoue JM, Ndjouenkeu R. Uses and quality assessment of cocoa butter sold in retail markets in Yaounde capital city, Cameroon. International Journal of Scientific & Engineering Research 2016;7(11):142-57.