Botanical molecules are known to have the ability to counteract ultraviolet radiation-induced skin damage. The interest in the development of natural compound-based products for the prevention of solar ultraviolet radiation-induced skin photoaging, melasma and photocarcinogenesis has been increasing. Recently, the flavonoid phloretin has attracted the attention of researchers in the dermatological field for application in cosmetics and therapeutics. In addition to its antioxidant activity, phloretin has been shown to have properties such as anti-aging and depigmenting effects.

A new study published in the European Journal of Pharmacology reviewed the efficacy of dermatological treatments with phloretin for conditions such as melasma, photoaging, acne and melanoma.

The findings revealed that phloretin has demonstrated inhibition of elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity—to reduce cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content and induce apoptosis—in melanoma cells. An in vivo study showed that phloretin, when applied topically, suppressed the 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate-induced expression of COX-2 – a critical molecular target of many chemopreventive, as well as anti-inflammatory agents.

Although phloretin can penetrate the skin, its penetration profile in different skin layers has not yet been evaluated. Despite its health benefits, phloretin application has been limited because of its photoinstability and poor aqueous solubility, among other limitations.

Source: European Journal of Pharmacology. 2020 Sep 21;173593. doi: 10.1016/j.ejphar.2020.173593.