Plants belonging to the Rosa genus are known for their high content of bioactive molecules and broad-spectrum of healing and cosmetic benefits.  

The purpose of a new study published in Molecules was to investigate the phytochemical composition and bioactivity of Rosa platyacantha Schrenk – a wild-type species of Rosa plants, which are abundant in the mountainous regions of Kazakhstan.

This study used various parts of the R. platyacantha plant, to prepare five hydroalcoholic extracts (R1-R5). The extracts were compared for the content of phytochemicals and selected biological activities—important for potential cosmetic application. 

The findings revealed that the extract R3, prepared from flower buds, had the most significant antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential, decreasing the monophenolase and diphenolase activities of tyrosinase. Additionally, extract R3 showed collagenase inhibitory activity and cytotoxicity against human melanoma cells A375 – being less cytotoxic for noncancerous skin keratinocytes HaCaT. From the analysis of fractions E and F, obtained from R3 extracts, it was concluded that quercetin, kaempferol, rutin and their derivatives are likely responsible for the tyrosinase inhibitory properties of R. platyacantha extracts. The phytochemical studies confirm the presence of gallic and ellagic acids and their derivatives as the most characteristic components of this Rosa species. 

The results confirmed, for the first time, the occurrence of brevifolin derivatives in genus Rosa, and the presence of flavonoids in the investigated R. platyacantha. The results also indicate that the extract prepared from closed flowers (buds) (R3) of R platyacantha is the richest source of phytocompounds with significant antioxidant potential. The R3 extract was also effective against human melanoma cells, showing considerably lower cytotoxicity toward noncancerous skin cells. Furthermore, closed flowers extract effectively inhibited activities of tyrosinase, suggesting its significant skin-lightening potential. Therefore, flower buds extract from R. platyacantha could be a potentially effective active ingredient of skin lightening, anti-aging and protecting cosmetics.

Source: Molecules. 2021 Apr 28;26(9):2578. doi: 10.3390/molecules26092578.