Natural cosmetics are flourishing due to renewed consumer and industry interest in natural ingredients, which has, in turn, increased the pressure on formulation skills and product claims while using natural compounds. Adopting strategic and comprehensive approaches in viewing natural ingredients, like natural oils, as ‘active’ ingredients instead of only providing natural claims, support both innovation and development. With this ever-increasing consumer demand for effective natural ingredients including plant oils, the cosmetic industry needs to re-evaluate them in this context.

A recent review provides an update of three popular cosmetic plant oils – Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba regarding their cosmetic applications as ‘active’ ingredients and also highlights the activity of these oils, in the management of dry skin, ageing skin, juvenile skin, atopic dermatitis, scalp conditions and their wider potential. Attention is given to formulation concerns where the content of these oils influences product oxidation, skin penetration and stratum corneum homeostasis.

Both pre-clinically, as well as clinical benefits of these oils, have been well documented. Historically, they have been used for hundreds of years for the management and treatment of various skin and other ailments. The discrepancies in some clinical data describing a type of dermatoses, the significance of picking the suitable oil and methods to formulate with them concerning the epidermal barrier function, skin penetration and toxicity cannot be underestimated. Careful monitoring of the quality and stability of these oils, confirming the best formulation type, is essential to achieve the reported activities of these oils with consistency. Although discrepancies in the literature exist and the study designs are questionable, the skincare benefits of Sweet Almond, Evening Primrose and Jojoba oils for both adult and juvenile applications are evident.

Thus they can be termed to be effective ingredients for skincare preparations to support stratum corneum integrity, recovery and lipid ratio. Yet, further experimental data are needed regarding the impact on stratum corneum physiology and structure.

SOURCE- Blaak J, Staib P. An updated review on efficacy and benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose and jojoba oils in skin care applications. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2022;44(1):1-9. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12758