Vitamin B3 deficiency can lead to pellagra, a systemic disease with symptoms like dermatitis, diarrhea and dementia. Nicotinamide, a form of vitamin B3, has nutritional and cosmeceutical uses. It helps restore cellular energy metabolism; reduces oxidative stress and inflammation; enhances skin barrier function and inhibits skin pigmentation. Clinical trials have shown that topical application of nicotinamide can reduce skin aging and hyperpigmentation without adverse effects.

Although the specific molecular targets of nicotinamide in controlling skin aging and pigmentation are poorly understood, it is believed to regulate cell redox status and various metabolites.

Nicotinamides effects on melanin synthesis in melanocytes are diverse, and it appears to modulate the interaction between keratinocytes and melanocytes. The mechanisms behind nicotinamides action may involve its intrinsic properties, as well as those of its metabolites, such as nicotinamide mononucleotide and 1-methyl nicotinamide – which have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Nicotinamide supplementation can counteract the effects of external and internal stimuli that contribute to skin aging and hyperpigmentation, such as oxidative stress and inflammatory response. Topically applied nicotinamide is well-tolerated; it enhances the extracellular matrix and skin barrier and inhibits the pigmentation process. This substance aids in maintaining skin homeostasis by regulating the cellular redox status. Nicotinamide is considered a beneficial cosmetic ingredient for improving skin health and appearance and combatting skin aging and hyperpigmentation, especially in older adults.

Source: Boo YC. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021;10(8):1315.