The growing interest in natural compounds for cosmetic formulations has led to a focus on licorice extracts, specifically Glycyrrhiza spp., in the realm of cosmeceuticals. Known for their cosmeceutical effects, Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are incorporated into cosmetic products for their skin-whitening, antisensitizing and anti-inflammatory properties. Licorice extracts, especially from Glycyrrhiza glabra, are widely used in various formulations, including daily products with sun protection, anti-aging creams and serums, due to their effects on wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and skin lightening.

Licorice extracts play a crucial role in addressing hyperpigmentation disorders, including melasma, induced by various factors such as sun exposure, acne scars and hormonal changes. Skin lightening creams, incorporating licorice extracts, work by reducing melanin and are considered whiteners or brighteners for naturally dark skin.

Research highlights the skin-lightening capacity of G. glabra root extracts, both individually and in combination with other herbal extracts. The synergistic effects of these combinations result in multipurpose effects, including whitening, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging and sunscreen properties. Bioactive compounds such as glycyrrhisoflavone, kaempferol, glyasperin C and glyasperin D within licorice further contribute to its skin-whitening properties.

In conclusion, licorice extracts, particularly from Glycyrrhiza spp., emerge as valuable ingredients in cosmeceuticals, offering a natural and effective approach to address various skin concerns, from hyperpigmentation to aging, contributing to enhanced skin esthetics.

Source:Cerulli A, Masullo M, Montoro P, Piacente S. Cosmetics. 2022;9(1):7.