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Emedinexus 21 April 2025
A panel of dermatology experts identified 23 key topical ingredients for treating common skin concerns, with retinoids receiving the highest consensus across multiple conditions. Most recommended ingredients were supported by strong clinical evidence.
A new study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology highlighted 23 effective topical ingredients for seven common skin concerns, including fine lines, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin, and oily skin. Retinoids emerged as the top recommendation, endorsed for five of these conditions.
The findings were based on a comprehensive literature review of cosmetic ingredients from 1990 to 2020, followed by evaluation by 17 expert dermatologists. Subsequently, a broader panel of 62 dermatologists from 43 institutions participated in two rounds of Delphi consensus surveys conducted between September 2023 and September 2024.
To be included, an ingredient had to receive high agreement (≥70% panelists rating 7–9 and ≤15% rating 1–3 on a 9-point scale). Key ingredients reaching consensus included retinoids, ammonium lactate, azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide, ceramides, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, mineral sunscreen, and vitamin C, among others.
Retinoids received the strongest support, with 96.8% of experts recommending them for fine lines, acne, and dark spots, and over 93% for large pores and oily skin. The study highlighted a strong evidence base, with 91% of consensus ingredients backed by level 1b or 2b evidence.
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